Thursday, March 21, 2013

beadboard in the bathroom

First off, let me start by giving a huge shoutout to Allison over at House of Hepworths.  She posted about installing beadboard in her kid's bathroom a few weeks ago, and it was such a huge help, and gave me the confidence to do this install.  I followed almost everything she did, with just a few changes because our bathroom is smaller and doesn't have a tub or shower.

I have been dreaming of installing some moulding in this house ever since we moved in, but with our walls textured like crazy, it's much more of an undertaking than a house that has nice, smooth walls.  So, we picked the smallest room in the house to add some character with traditional 2" beadboard. 

Above the beadboard, we painted the walls "Mariner", which is a Martha Stewart color from Home Depot.  And, since this room is so small, we just purchased (3) of the sample sizes for about $10 total. Then, after updating the vanity and floor in this room, I removed the backsplash.  This tile wasn't particularly offensive, it was just blah and we decided just having the beadboard would look best.
I first cut the caulk with a utility knife to allow the tiles to be removed easily.
Taking these tiles off only took about 10 minutes with a hammer and screwdriver, and went pretty well except a few spots where the drywall came up a bit.
These were a quick fix with some spackle, and the remaining caulk was easily scraped off with the head of a screwdriver and some goo gone.
After painting the baseboards white, I nailed them back in place, and then started on the beadboard.  You can get 4' x 8' sheets at Home Depot or Lowe's for around $20 each.  We picked up two boards and had them cut these boards in half, giving us (4) 4' x 4' boards. 

The first two boards were easy because they didn't require any cuts.  And, the width of these sheets is the same as the width of our original baseboard, so I didn't have to replace those!  I am cheap and don't have a nail gun, so I simply installed these by hammering nails straight into the studs.
When we got to the pieces that needed to be cut, we took very careful measurements and then marked our boards (measure twice, cut once!!).
We don't have a workbench in the garage yet (Coming Soon, though!!), so we made all these cuts with a jigsaw in the kitchen, by clamping the board to the island.  I had never used a jigsaw before, so Matt spent his evenings making sure I didn't cut off a finger while I made the cuts.
A big thanks to my parents for giving Matthew two sets of these clamps for Christmas! He hadn't asked for them, but we have used them a ton.  I LOVE gifts that you don't know how much you need, and will love! 
Here's the piece that goes behind the toilet.
And here it is, installed.  At first I was really worried about how the piece around the plumbing would look, but it's barely noticeable not that it's all finished.

P.S. Why couldn't they have just put this on the other side of the toilet?  I think all builders need to have a designer come through and point things like this out. Just a thought...
To cut around the light switches, measure from every angle and draw out your cut lines.  Then, take a large drill bit and make holes to start from, and cut from there.
After all the cuts were made, and the boards were up, the room looked like this:
You'll notice that there are a number of gaps between the pieces because walls aren't perfectly level, but this is easily fixed and not even noticeable, with some caulk.
I filled in the holes with wood filler, and caulked all the gaps before painting the boards with white paint we already had. 

Next went up the top board.  We stood in the moulding aisle at Home Depot for about a half hour, trying to figure out what we wanted on the top and we settled on this casing.  These casing boards worked really well for us because it is a nice mixture of a traditional chair rail, and a more modern, flat board.  The best part about this casing was that each 6' board was only $6.75.
I nailed everything in place, making sure each board was level, and then painted and caulked it all.
I also caulked between the counter and the beadboard:
Now that all the little touch ups are done, the room is looking like this:
In case you were wondering, this is how it looks by the toilet plumbing.  No big deal, right?
Here's a breakdown of the costs of this project:

(2) Sheets of Beadboard - $40
(3) 6' Casing Boards - $20.25
Nails - Already had
White Paint - Already Had
Blue Paint - $10
Caulk - $3

For less than $75, I have completely transformed this space and added probably the only decorative moulding we will ever have in this house.  Next up in this room is a smaller mirror that I'm going to frame out for about $20!


  1. Good job!! I'm still trying to get T on board with board and batten.... he isn't there yet :( I try to tell him it's a great transformation for little to nothing!

    1. Yes! I vote yes on board and batten! Do you have nice, flat walls?

  2. great job! love the new look!

  3. It is my great pleasure to visit your website and to enjoy your excellent post here. I like that very much.Plumber Homewood, Al

  4. Quick question - it appears you painted the upper wall before you did the beadboard and molding. Did that work well for you or would you have painted after the installation if you had to do it again? Thanks!

    1. I am so happy with the way I did it! That way, I didn't have to worry about getting any dark blue paint on my white trim and beadboard! :)


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